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Truck, Trailer, and Outdoor Power Equipment Discussion, Repairs. Questions on your truck, trailer, commercial lawn mowers, lawn mower, mower parts, lawn tractors, engines, edgers, trimmers, pole saws, aerators, hydro seeders, snow plows, chain saws, stump grinders??

Time for first oil change. Mobile1 ok?


Truck, Trailer, and Outdoor Power Equipment Discussion, Repairs.

Questions on your truck, trailer, commercial lawn mowers, lawn mower, mower parts, lawn tractors, engines, edgers, trimmers, pole saws, aerators, hydro seeders, snow plows, chain saws, stump grinders??
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:28 AM
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Default Time for first oil change. Mobile1 ok?

Its time for the first oil change for my rider. Is Mobile1 ok or should I stick with the recommended B&S oil? I am very partial to Valvoline but figured with all my new equipment I will go full synthetic. What about weight? I guess its best to use the recommended weight in the manuals.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:53 PM
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After reading more fine print in the manual I opted for my normal Valvoline. While draining the oil in the 17.5HP B&S I noted a lot of white and brown nastiness coming out. Is that just break in mater? Looks like water in the oil but I couldn't say how it could have gotten there.
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:03 PM
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Did your manual say anything about using synthetic oils?
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:43 PM
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[quote=jasonw;59736]After reading more fine print in the manual I opted for my normal Valvoline. While draining the oil in the 17.5HP B&S I noted a lot of white and brown nastiness coming out. Is that just break in mater? Looks like water in the oil but I couldn't say how it could have gotten there.

Kinda hard to tell without seeing it. Check with your local dealer or auto parts store. The auto parts store may have an idea about the reason for the oil discoloration.

Its not water in the oil unless someone physically poured it in there. This size and type of B&S engine does not have any water in it. A straight 30 weight is always a good choice for a B&S engine unless the book calls for a different weight. And never cut corners on cost. Saving $2-$5 in oil could cost you $1000+ in repairs. Its simply not worth it.
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Old 10-30-2009, 02:36 AM
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Did your manual say anything about using synthetic oils?
Steve all the book said is if using a synthetic oil to disregard the weight temps as usable temps as far as viscosity goes do not apply to synthetics.
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Old 10-30-2009, 02:44 AM
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[quote=SuperiorPower;59774]
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Originally Posted by jasonw View Post
After reading more fine print in the manual I opted for my normal Valvoline. While draining the oil in the 17.5HP B&S I noted a lot of white and brown nastiness coming out. Is that just break in mater? Looks like water in the oil but I couldn't say how it could have gotten there.

Kinda hard to tell without seeing it. Check with your local dealer or auto parts store. The auto parts store may have an idea about the reason for the oil discoloration.

Its not water in the oil unless someone physically poured it in there. This size and type of B&S engine does not have any water in it. A straight 30 weight is always a good choice for a B&S engine unless the book calls for a different weight. And never cut corners on cost. Saving $2-$5 in oil could cost you $1000+ in repairs. Its simply not worth it.
I agree. I stopped by Ace as well as the auto store and both said generally synthetics in lawn equipment is frowned apone. The auto store recommended the ND 30 for the mowers but also said since Valvoline 10-30 has worked so good for me through the years there is no reason to change what I use. I know I didn't save money on the oil as the 1.5 quarts the rider took cost me about $10 just for the oil lol
The auto parts store mentioned something interesting as well. He said its not really the oil as much as it is the frequency of changing it. He said he is a firm believer that the more often its changed the better for example the book says after this first oil change to change it every 25 hours of operation, He said do it every 15-20 hours and it will last longer. If I change it according to the book as far as usage goes it will get changed every 6.25 months which I don't like. I think I may go ahead and get it done every 3 months just like I do on the cars. As you say better to be safe than sorry, $10 in oil and an hour of time lost is not a big deal for me anyway.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:47 AM
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I stopped by Ace as well as the auto store and both said generally synthetics in lawn equipment is frowned apone.
I wonder what the story with that is. I have heard once you start using synthetic oil you shouldn't switch back. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:41 AM
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I wonder what the story with that is. I have heard once you start using synthetic oil you shouldn't switch back. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.
Thats another thing that both stores mentioned, once I use it I am stuck with it. If business get very slow I still have to spend a fortune for oil. They both seemed to think that it was very over rated.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:16 PM
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Ok, several things.

First of all, NEVER use synthetic oil until at least after the first oil change. As I understand this, using regular 30 weight oil for the break in period permits the engine to be broke in before the synthetic oil stops the wear that is necessary for the break in period. B&S permits the use of synthetic oil in temps below 40 degrees. However, check your specific manual for the exact details....

Second, you are NOT stuck with using synthetic oil just because you use it once. At least I have never heard that before....

Last but not least, I hope I misunderstood you on the oil that you used. I hope you did not use non-detergent 30 weight oil. NEVER EVER use non-detergent oil in engines unless the engine manual specifically requests it which in today's world, you will likely never see that.

The reason for this, as I understand it, is because non-detergent does not clean the sludge out of the engine. B&S states that: detergent oils keep the engine cleaner and retards the formation of gum and varnish deposits.

Good luck and I hope this helped,
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Old 10-31-2009, 07:07 PM
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Ok, several things.

First of all, NEVER use synthetic oil until at least after the first oil change. As I understand this, using regular 30 weight oil for the break in period permits the engine to be broke in before the synthetic oil stops the wear that is necessary for the break in period. B&S permits the use of synthetic oil in temps below 40 degrees. However, check your specific manual for the exact details....

Second, you are NOT stuck with using synthetic oil just because you use it once. At least I have never heard that before....

Last but not least, I hope I misunderstood you on the oil that you used. I hope you did not use non-detergent 30 weight oil. NEVER EVER use non-detergent oil in engines unless the engine manual specifically requests it which in today's world, you will likely never see that.

The reason for this, as I understand it, is because non-detergent does not clean the sludge out of the engine. B&S states that: detergent oils keep the engine cleaner and retards the formation of gum and varnish deposits.

Good luck and I hope this helped,
Eli
]
Yes you misunderstood me, they recommended ND30 but I went with Valvoline 10-30. I am surprised you never heard about changing back to non synthetic. I use to work in the industry and yes we never recommended to change back to non synthetic once you made the switch. I wish I could site something on this but I can not.
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