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Toro Proline in-line fuse

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  • Toro Proline in-line fuse

    Got a 52 inch Toro proline that the inline fuse blew and melted in the fuse holder, can I change the inline fuse (removing the old fuse/fuse holder and splicing a new one in)? I believe its grounding out around the electric clutch but I'm not certain.

    Any help would be GREAT!

  • #2
    Yea that's what I would do. Just make sure you use the same size fuse.

    What happened that led up to that? Did it just happen at once or did it melt over time? There might be another problem that caused that to happen.
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    • #3
      I just bought the machine, the guy said it had blown a fuse, he replaced it and it worked fine. I replaced the paddle switch that engages the blades and that safety switch on the t-bar, I learned early those things go out on the prolines first or close to it. If I replace this inline fuse, tape up any places it may be grounding out, and it still acts up I know its either the wiring harness/relay or the electric clutch itself I think.

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      • #4
        Take a picture of it before and after and show us what you do.

        Also keep us posted on how this goes afterwards.
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        • #5
          use a multimeter or a powered test light ,and test for continuity between the the wire and ground,there should not be any .

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          • #6
            Hey guys,

            I I replaced the in-line fuse, and holder and its no longer blowing the fuse. the blades will not come on though. I checked the wires from the electric clutch to the male and female connectors for knicks and splits, finding none. possibility that the ends on the connectors are bad? I'm REALLY hoping the clutch isn't going bad, knowing my luck though...

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            • #7
              check for power at the clutch

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              • #8
                Sadly, I think shes shot. I didn't get any power from the clutch w/ motor running. Pretty sure shes shot.

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                • #9
                  You need to replace the clutch. Have you looked up a price yet?
                  Boughter's Lawn Care Services Mowing and Fertilizing in New Castle, PA

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                  • #10
                    I did. $350.00 new (whole assembly) from the local Toro supplier here in Greensboro NC. I can install it myself, but for what I paid for the machine ($500.00 with 369 hrs.) the clutch doesn't bother me as much.

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                    • #11
                      you could most likely get the clutch cheaper then that if you look around. Check the resistance on the clutch and post that. you can not tell if it is bad by checking the voltage.
                      I am the owner of www.AllOutdoorParts.com an online mower parts distributor. I am also a Briggs Master Service Technician and Expert Certified Mechanic for Kohler. If my posts helps you please like my facebook page at www.facebook.com/alloutdoorparts

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                      • #12
                        ... from the local Toro supplier ...
                        Yeah, don't do that. Send me your model number and serial number range and I'll look for a better price.
                        Boughter's Lawn Care Services Mowing and Fertilizing in New Castle, PA

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                        • #13
                          Yeah, don't do that. Send me your model number and serial number range and I'll look for a better price.
                          Model/Serial: 30176-592511
                          52" Toro Proline 14 HP Kohler Command

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                          • #14
                            OK. Make sure this is the correct part:

                            http://www.mowpart.com/p131509/Clutc...duct_info.html
                            Boughter's Lawn Care Services Mowing and Fertilizing in New Castle, PA

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                            • #15
                              hey fellas,

                              just an update:

                              got busy and had to put this toro 52 project on hold until i could get time (and energy) to work on it...and I found out it wasn't the clutch that was bad on this mower (took a mower battery and started the blades that way) and it ran fine, so its got to be something in the wiring, or the electronic control module that mounts on the side of the 14 HP Kohler motor... the good news, I didn't have to replace the clutch! the bad news...gotta change the wire that the in-line fuse had on it, do I have to have the fuse in line or can i get away with not having it?

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