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Well Basicly I'm gonna run each zone. Walk around and flag every head that needs reset, replaced, or moved. I'm gonna watch for dry spots and and over grown shrubs. Turf over the head. Then break it down for them. Often what starts as a simple test turns into a nice job. If the heads dont make it over the shrubs you need either a new head, longer risier, larger sprinkler, or trimmed shrubs. If you see a tree trnk is catching the water from a head you may need to move that head or add one. Same with dry spots. If you've got compaction issues you may sell an areation.If it's an old system and the pop ups are on the same zone as the roters you may be able to talk them into splitting those to 2 zones. If the shrubs are mature you maybe able to talk them into retro fitting a drip system to conserve water. You may find wet areas that need drainage work or regrade. You may find some plants like hawthorn with leaf spots from over head water that need a drip line to keep the water off the leaves.
Well pop ups need to be ran for 15-20min while a roter needs 45min-1hr to put down the same water. It's against the law to install like that here now. In order to water with a roter properly you over water with the popup.
Pop ups spray a set area and dont move. So that 6x6 area gets a constant bath while that zone is on. Roters have to move so for the same time you put down less water per sqft. You water more sqft though.
Oh thats interesting! So then watching for this on older irrigation systems helps you point this out as well to the home owner. And they can then make an informed decision! It's good to know this stuff! I bet the home owners are amazed when you explain this to them.
Brother education is key to face to face marketing. You never have to bash their current contractor, just out talk them. I do a good bit of retro fits for drip as well as taking the turf and beds off the same zones. Turf has 4-6in of roots while a plants has 18in. Turf need alot more water and should not be on the same zone