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Seann
09-20-2009, 09:18 AM
Does anyone have a simple way of doing this? I do remember someone with a jack of some sorts.. but i cant find it. Im using some car ramps to get underneath, but i just dont have enough clearance under there to make this an easy job. takes me about 30 min. to get this job done.

justin_time
09-20-2009, 09:40 AM
Here's my mower jack thread

http://www.gopherforum.com/showthread.php?t=9752

Steve
09-20-2009, 02:18 PM
Seann,

Keep us posted on what you go with.

Seann
09-21-2009, 07:43 PM
Well this last set of blades was put on by the dealer (when he put on the striper kit) He must have gone with the mfg recommendation of 75 ft/lb . I cant get these OFF for the life of me. Akward angles, wrenches that are too short(no leverage}. I guess its off to Sears to buy a big a__ long wrench.

Striper kit looks cool though, ill send some before and after pics after I use it.

Steve
09-21-2009, 08:03 PM
Do you have an impact wrench to try and get it off?

Seann
09-21-2009, 09:43 PM
no on the impact wrench. Even if i had one, i dont think ive got the machine up in air high enough to work with one. A buddy is going to come over this week and help me out. Maybe next year ill splurge on Justin's jack. For now ill just bust some knuckles..:mad:

justin_time
09-21-2009, 10:28 PM
no on the impact wrench. Even if i had one, i dont think ive got the machine up in air high enough to work with one. A buddy is going to come over this week and help me out. Maybe next year ill splurge on Justin's jack. For now ill just bust some knuckles..:mad:

Here's the link if you want to order one

http://www.junglejimsap.com/jack.html

Seann
09-23-2009, 06:26 PM
Well it took about 25 minutes including figuring out where to place the wrenches and which way to turn them.. it should be a big deal after ive done it a couple times. would not really want to change them on the job site.

Saddlewood
09-23-2009, 10:03 PM
I've found that I can utilize my trailer ramp as my "jack". I can ride up the ramp as if I were loading the mower, but this time, hang one front wheel off the side of the ramp so that I've got visibility and able to move around under the deck. I'm sure one of the jacks that are specifically designed for the these mowers would be easier/ safer, but so far, the ramp has worked well for me.

FloridaBoy
09-23-2009, 11:29 PM
I mentioned that i use my gate as a lift to change the blades, and steve requested some pics of how i do it.

Here you go, makes it pretty simple, no jack, or ramps in the way, all open.

Steve
09-24-2009, 01:08 AM
That looks like it would work out great! With something like that you wouldn't need a jack!

swampfox
10-17-2009, 03:05 PM
The trailer idea is AWSOME, I feel like a fool for not thinking of that. My problem is my blade bolts get so tight even an impact wont brake them loose without full air pressure in the compressor, I have thought about "anti-sieze", but life sure would suck if they came loose!

Haven't had any luck finding a used deck for my Exmark, Just did a lot of twikking on the deck (blocks of wood and a really big pry bar) and adjusting the adjusters. Its not to bad should get me thru season. If any body runs across a used 60" Trivantage deck, Please give a holler.

SuperiorPower
10-17-2009, 09:13 PM
The trailer idea is AWSOME, I feel like a fool for not thinking of that. My problem is my blade bolts get so tight even an impact wont brake them loose without full air pressure in the compressor, I have thought about "anti-sieze", but life sure would suck if they came loose!

Haven't had any luck finding a used deck for my Exmark, Just did a lot of twikking on the deck (blocks of wood and a really big pry bar) and adjusting the adjusters. Its not to bad should get me thru season. If any body runs across a used 60" Trivantage deck, Please give a holler.

Anti-sieze works. I have been using anti-sieze in the shop for about 15 years and have NEVER EVER had a blade come loose from it. Anti-size is the best things you could ever put on the threads. Better than oil, grease, or anything else.

justin_time
10-18-2009, 09:33 PM
I mentioned that i use my gate as a lift to change the blades, and steve requested some pics of how i do it.

Here you go, makes it pretty simple, no jack, or ramps in the way, all open.

My trailer ramp is 5' long so I tried that, and it still doesn't give me much space to get under the mower and remove my blades

Saddlewood
10-19-2009, 09:59 AM
Anti-sieze works. I have been using anti-sieze in the shop for about 15 years and have NEVER EVER had a blade come loose from it. Anti-size is the best things you could ever put on the threads. Better than oil, grease, or anything else.

Tell me more about the anti-seize product. I've heard of it, but don't know that I know enough to understand the benefits of it. Also I've heard there are multiple grades of the product, any recommnedation as to which one would work best for our mowing applications? Thank you in advance!

swampfox
12-23-2009, 03:53 PM
:):):) Got rid of the ramps and using "anti-sieze" on the blade bolts.

The use for anti-seize is almost the opposite of a thread-locking compound like Loctite. Anti-Seize is a nickel or copper and graphite-based paste that prevents galling or binding of a nut onto a bolt, or assists with press fitting bearing races into components.

LIFE IS GOOD!


Thanks:):):)

cklandscapingorlando
12-23-2009, 07:54 PM
I use anti sieze now for probly 10 years and never had a problem. Been using my trailer ramp for just as long. When using the trauiler make sure the discharge shoot is over the gate and the other blades are off. You then change the one blade through the shoot and the other blades from the bottom.

I also keep a 1ft 4x4 for a blade breaker with a breaker bar in the truck. I only use those of I hit something and the blade is real tight. I usually keep a fresh set of blades on the deck of the mower so I can change them on site if need be

SuperiorPower
12-23-2009, 11:05 PM
Tell me more about the anti-seize product. I've heard of it, but don't know that I know enough to understand the benefits of it. Also I've heard there are multiple grades of the product, any recommnedation as to which one would work best for our mowing applications? Thank you in advance!

Wow! Sorry for not seeing your question earlier!

Like Swampfox said, it is almost the opposite of a thread locking compound. It can normally be bought at auto parts stores. A small container can last forever. It is a very good product to apply to any product that is the recipient of high heat or intermittent moisture. Examples of uses are blade bolts/nuts (as mentioned), spark plugs, cylinder head bolts, exhaust component fastening bolts/nuts, or basically anything that could rust because of heat or moisture.

The good thing about anti-seize is that even though it may get very hot (like exhaust manifold bolts/nuts). Literally, years after extreme heat the threads are still workable. I am a BIG believer of anti-seize. It also works where steel bolts are threaded into aluminum. Sometimes the aluminum galls up after years of not being disturbed and gathering moisture and condensation.

This is what I have (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?displayName=Lube&itemId=761-10&navValue=100761&parentId=8-10&productId=178722&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=178722_0_0_&filterByKeyWord=antiseize&categoryNValue=100008&store=2369&skuDisplayName=8oz.%28226.8g.%29anti-seizelubricant&categoryDisplayName=Performance&_requestid=44672). You will never use all that from just working on your mower. It will easily save you $6.50 in labor and stripped bolts, nuts, and busted knuckles.

Eli