PDA

View Full Version : Winterizing Equipment


GreenMatters716
10-20-2011, 09:43 PM
Hello everyone! I have been watching youtube videos on how to winterize mowers, trimmers, ect. Everyone says somthing different.Some say drain the fuel out and some say jus add fuel stablizer and let it sit. What is the best way to store the equipment for the winter?

Steve
10-21-2011, 03:26 PM
I vote, drain out the fuel :) Simple, easy.

justin_time
10-21-2011, 06:17 PM
Trimmers/Small tools - Just empty it back in your gas can, start it, then let it run on fumes until it dies

Mowers - Just put stabilizer in the gas and you should be fine starting up in the spring. Unplug the battery.

wandfsmall
10-21-2011, 06:25 PM
Hello everyone! I have been watching youtube videos on how to winterize mowers, trimmers, ect. Everyone says somthing different.Some say drain the fuel out and some say jus add fuel stablizer and let it sit. What is the best way to store the equipment for the winter?

for trimmers I would put some sef fuel or truefuel in them so that the gaskets do not dry out and you do not have ethanol problems. As for mowers I would recommend startron or ethonal shield and a fall service. And personally I say remove the battery and take it inside so that it does not freeze.

turf&tree
10-21-2011, 07:23 PM
In a Honda tech bulletin they say you can approach it 2 ways. Drain fuel, start engine and run it dry. Or if you want to leave fuel in it add stabilizer and run through engine. Make sure tank is topped off, the problem comes from condensation of un full tanks. If you top it off you have no condensation.
Jim

Ducke
10-21-2011, 07:35 PM
I always drain my fuel and run the motor till it stops.
Last year somehow I forgot to drain my Weed Whacker and it cost me 80.00 to rebuild the carb this spring.
So once again once I'm done mowing I will pressure wash all the gear dry it drain it run till stop give them a coat of Fluid Film and then store for the winter.
also I will take the batteries indoor to store.

turf&tree
10-21-2011, 07:42 PM
I also drain it. Found a great little hand pump, throw it in my truck and no fuel bill for a week. Might have been cheaper to just replace the carb.

Hedgemaster
10-21-2011, 07:50 PM
for trimmers I would put some sef fuel or truefuel in them so that the gaskets do not dry out and you do not have ethanol problems. As for mowers I would recommend startron or ethonal shield and a fall service. And personally I say remove the battery and take it inside so that it does not freeze.


Ooh! Ohh! I finally found someplace that sells "straight" Truefuel! Sears!

I see the 40:1 and occasionally 50:1 cans, but I recently noted that my Sears has "unmixed" Truefuel.

JeffK26
10-21-2011, 09:23 PM
I've seen broad answers as well, but i'd vote for drain the fuel... if you leave the fuel in it CAN harm the equipment, i have never heard of it harming the engine if you do drain it... what i have seen is more of a suggestion that if you leave it in in certain motors it won't harm so you don't have to worry on those, but i have never read that if you do drain ... it will harm...

Hedgemaster
10-21-2011, 09:26 PM
I've seen broad answers as well, but i'd vote for drain the fuel... if you leave the fuel in it CAN harm the equipment, i have never heard of it harming the engine if you do drain it... what i have seen is more of a suggestion that if you leave it in in certain motors it won't harm so you don't have to worry on those, but i have never read that if you do drain ... it will harm...


Wait, what? Can you say that again, but slower?




:D :p

LOL! Just bustin' yer balls.

wandfsmall
10-21-2011, 10:50 PM
I've seen broad answers as well, but i'd vote for drain the fuel... if you leave the fuel in it CAN harm the equipment, i have never heard of it harming the engine if you do drain it... what i have seen is more of a suggestion that if you leave it in in certain motors it won't harm so you don't have to worry on those, but i have never read that if you do drain ... it will harm...

Well you do have 2 schools of thought on most things no gas will cause condensation that will cause rust. ethanol eats up the gas lines the carb primer and will also cause the gas in the system to separate with the oil and make your trimmer run lean destroying it. That is why I like the TRUE FUEL or SEF fuel for your last tank in the trimmer. Just empty your tank out remember to pump the primer and get all of the gas out. Then pour the can in and start and run your trimmer for a little bit. As for your mowers use a STARTRON or ETHANOL SHIELD as they work much better then stabil with ethanol(the root of your problem). As for the winter service they now say that gas mixing with the oil causes the oil to break down(not a chemist so I can not really explain this well) but changing the oil at the end of the season compared to the beginning is supposed to make your equipment last longer.

wandfsmall
10-21-2011, 10:51 PM
Ooh! Ohh! I finally found someplace that sells "straight" Truefuel! Sears!

I see the 40:1 and occasionally 50:1 cans, but I recently noted that my Sears has "unmixed" Truefuel.

I have had it for a few years in SEF but I have never seen it in truefuel..... I think right now I am $4.99 a can in the store, I can not sell it online though:(

wandfsmall
10-21-2011, 10:54 PM
I always drain my fuel and run the motor till it stops.
Last year somehow I forgot to drain my Weed Whacker and it cost me 80.00 to rebuild the carb this spring.
So once again once I'm done mowing I will pressure wash all the gear dry it drain it run till stop give them a coat of Fluid Film and then store for the winter.
also I will take the batteries indoor to store.

I like the fluid film idea to protect the mower from rust that will help a lot. I might have to add that to my fall service as an option as well....

I do have it as an option for the decks in the spring.

SECTLANDSCAPING
10-22-2011, 02:17 AM
The last tank I use a ethanol shield or stabil. Then I always drained fuel afterwards. The only thing I do different is put a spoon or two of oil in two strokes. Then prime it 2-3 times to get it in the carb. I believe that keeps it lubed and prevents rust but it may just be my own personal theory.

GreenMatters716
10-22-2011, 01:07 PM
Thank you so much.. Great info!

JeffK26
10-22-2011, 04:02 PM
Wait, what? Can you say that again, but slower?




:D :p

LOL! Just bustin' yer balls.

HA! i had a few beers when i wrote that...it sounded good in my head! I swear. I just read that and thinking "what did i just say?"

Darn edit button needs to stay around longer!

SuperiorPower
11-08-2011, 02:10 PM
Here is a F.A.Q. (http://lawnmowerforum.superiorpowerequip.com/index.php/topic,195.0.html) that I prepared some time ago regarding this very topic. It is linked to a more detailed article as well (http://lawnmowerforum.superiorpowerequip.com/index.php/topic,107.0.html). Since then some things have changed as far as the Startron, etc. I agree with wandfsmall regarding the sef fuels. I personally have not used any of the startron but have heard great things about it.

turf&tree
11-09-2011, 06:05 AM
Being a landscaper who also does full time equipment repair and is EETC certified, I would recommend the startron fuel additive. I buy it by the case from Stens and treat all of the fuel that goes into my machines and my customers machines. It has a fuel stabilizer and an ethanol treatment in it. The premixed quart cans of pure fuel are nice if you are a homeowner but what landscaper could afford that. Hell I pay $ 3.00 per can and sell it to my homeowners for $ 4.50 a can. I drain the fuel @ the end of the season.

wandfsmall
11-09-2011, 08:03 PM
Being a landscaper who also does full time equipment repair and is EETC certified, I would recommend the startron fuel additive. I buy it by the case from Stens and treat all of the fuel that goes into my machines and my customers machines. It has a fuel stabilizer and an ethanol treatment in it. The premixed quart cans of pure fuel are nice if you are a homeowner but what landscaper could afford that. Hell I pay $ 3.00 per can and sell it to my homeowners for $ 4.50 a can. I drain the fuel @ the end of the season.

That is why I recommended the SEF fuel for the last tank. One can of that a year is not that high for the conveyance of a better running 2cycle. Personally I prefer the Ethonal Shield over the startron so if you get a chance try it. Also what did you think of the EETC certification did you learn anything while studying to take it? I personally have never taken it as I have to spend enough time working and keeping up the requirements for the 7 engine lines, 4 equipment lines, and 3 hydro systems, I am certified to work on. But I like to keep up with things to look for on a resume, and if you learned anything it might be worth while.

turf&tree
11-10-2011, 04:41 AM
I did learn a few things. I took the 2 and 4 stroke tests. In my opinion they were way too easy. Of course you have to consider most of the people that will be taking it probably have nothing more than a high school education. When I took it I looked around the room and what I saw scared me! But you have to consider the average pay scale for most shops is maxed out at about $ 12.00/ hr unless you are the owner like us your not going to make a lot of money in the small equipment repair field. Just wait until the gov steps it up and we have catalytic converters and fuel injection on everything!!! That will separate the men from the boys.

wandfsmall
11-10-2011, 04:00 PM
I did learn a few things. I took the 2 and 4 stroke tests. In my opinion they were way too easy. Of course you have to consider most of the people that will be taking it probably have nothing more than a high school education. When I took it I looked around the room and what I saw scared me! But you have to consider the average pay scale for most shops is maxed out at about $ 12.00/ hr unless you are the owner like us your not going to make a lot of money in the small equipment repair field. Just wait until the gov steps it up and we have catalytic converters and fuel injection on everything!!! That will separate the men from the boys.

I have been certified for over 10 years on the fuel injection units they are not as bad as you would think. Personally I think the hydro units tend to be what separates the good techs from the bad ones. I am guessing you have never taken the Briggs MST or the Kohler Expert Technician tests, they are challenging enough I know quite a lot of people that have not passed on the first try.

Steve
11-11-2011, 05:50 PM
Personally I think the hydro units tend to be what separates the good techs from the bad ones.

What do you feel about them makes them the toughest to grasp?

wandfsmall
11-11-2011, 06:57 PM
What do you feel about them makes them the toughest to grasp?

two things FEAR and the fact you have to troubleshoot with theory for the most part as you can not see it working. Most techs just throw parts at it when they rebuild them.